Nigerian Fabrics Explained: Ankara, Aso-Oke, Adire & More

Walk into a Nigerian wedding or a Lagos fabric market and you'll see an explosion of colour and texture. Each fabric has its own name, history and use. Here is a plain-English guide to the most important Nigerian fabrics, useful whether you're buying aso-ebi, shopping on a trip home, or simply curious.

Ankara (African wax print)

Ankara is the bright, patterned cotton fabric most people picture when they think of African prints. It's made with a wax-resist printing technique and comes in endless designs.

• Worn for: everyday dresses, shirts, skirts, children's clothes and casual aso-ebi.
• Sold as: commonly in 6-yard pieces.
• Buying tip: good Ankara feels firm, keeps its colour on both sides and doesn't feel papery.

Lace

Lace is the queen of Nigerian party fabrics, from cord lace and French lace to sequin and heavily beaded lace. It's the most common aso-ebi choice for weddings and big celebrations.

Full breakdown: types of lace fabric in Nigeria.

Aso-oke

Aso-oke is a hand-woven Yoruba cloth made in narrow strips on a loom and then sewn together. It's heavy, durable and prestigious.

• Worn for: gele (head ties), men's fila (caps), agbada and wrappers at weddings, engagements and chieftaincy events.
• Did you know? Brides at Yoruba traditional weddings often wear aso-oke with a matching gele.

Adire

Adire is a Yoruba resist-dyed cloth, traditionally dyed with indigo and strongly associated with Abeokuta in Ogun State. Patterns are made by tying, folding, stitching or painting starch onto the cloth before dyeing.

• Worn for: relaxed gowns, shirts, two-piece sets and modern fashion pieces.
• Why people love it: it's handmade, so every piece is a little different.

George

George is a heavy, often silk-like fabric with embroidery or woven patterns, popular in the South-South and South-East, especially for Igbo and Niger Delta weddings.

• Worn for: women's wrappers for traditional weddings, often with a matching blouse and head tie.

Akwete

Akwete is a hand-woven cloth from the town of Akwete in Abia State, made traditionally by Igbo women weavers, with distinctive geometric designs.

Isiagu

Isiagu is the patterned fabric used for the Igbo men's traditional top, often printed with lion heads. It's typically worn with a red cap by titled men and at cultural ceremonies.

Swiss voile and cotton laces

Lighter, breathable fabrics with small embroidered patterns, popular for men's kaftans and senator styles and for hot daytime events.

Where to buy Nigerian fabrics

• In Lagos: Tejuosho Market, Balogun and other markets stock Ankara, lace, George and more; aso-oke and adire are also sold by specialist traders.
• From abroad: buy from a trusted Lagos trader and ship it; see buying from abroad.

Planning an outfit? Read what to wear to a Nigerian wedding.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most popular Nigerian fabric?

Ankara (African wax print) is the most widely worn everyday fabric, while lace is the most popular choice for parties and aso-ebi.

What is aso-oke?

Aso-oke is a hand-woven Yoruba cloth made in strips on a loom, often used for gele (head ties), men's caps (fila) and agbada at weddings and important ceremonies.

What is adire?

Adire is a Yoruba resist-dyed indigo cloth, traditionally associated with Abeokuta. Patterns are made by tying, stitching or applying starch before dyeing.

What fabric do Igbo people wear for weddings?

George, a heavy embroidered fabric often in bold colours, is a favourite for Igbo wedding wrappers, alongside lace and the isiagu fabric worn by men.