How to Wash Lace, Ankara & Aso-Oke (Care Guide)

A good piece of lace or aso-oke is an investment, and many outfits are worn again for years. But the wrong wash can loosen stones, fade colours or shrink fabric in one go. Here's how to care for lace, Ankara, aso-oke and gele, including tips for colder, damper climates like the UK and Canada.

Before the first wash

• Check the label or ask the trader how the fabric should be washed.
• Do a colour test: dab a hidden corner with a damp white cloth. If colour comes off, wash separately in cold water or dry clean.
• Pre-wash Ankara before sewing if you're worried about shrinkage; tell your tailor.

Washing beaded, stoned and sequin lace

1. Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent; don't soak for long.
2. Press gently; never wring or twist.
3. Rinse in cool water until the water runs clear.
4. Roll in a clean towel to remove water.
5. Dry flat or on a padded hanger in the shade.

For heavily embellished or very expensive pieces, a professional dry cleaner is the safest choice.

Washing cord lace and French lace

Hand wash or use a gentle cold machine cycle inside a mesh laundry bag. Avoid fabric softener on lace with metallic threads.

Washing Ankara

• Turn inside out and wash in cold water with mild detergent.
• Wash dark and bright prints separately at first.
• No bleach.
• Dry in the shade or indoors; strong sun fades prints over time.
• Iron inside out on medium heat.

Caring for aso-oke and gele

• Aso-oke rarely needs a full wash. Spot clean, or dry clean if needed.
• Air it after wearing before putting it away.
• Store gele flat or loosely rolled so it keeps its stiffness for tying.

Ironing

• Iron lace from the reverse side with a cloth between the iron and the fabric.
• Never iron directly over stones, beads or sequins; they can melt or come loose.
• Use steam carefully on aso-oke; test a corner first.

Storing outfits, especially in cold, damp climates

If you live in the UK, Canada or anywhere damp, mould and musty smells are the main enemies:

• Make sure outfits are completely dry before storing.
• Use breathable cotton garment bags, not plastic.
• Add moisture absorbers or silica gel in wardrobes.
• Air outfits every few months.
• Keep heavy beaded pieces folded with tissue paper rather than hanging, so the weight doesn't stretch the fabric.

Buying fabric that lasts

Care starts with quality. Learn how to check lace before buying in our aso-ebi buying guide, and see Nigerian fabrics explained. Buying from abroad? Start with how to buy aso-ebi from abroad.

Frequently asked questions

Can I machine wash lace?

Plain cotton or light lace can sometimes go on a gentle cold cycle inside a laundry bag, but beaded, stoned and sequin lace should be hand washed gently or dry cleaned.

How do I stop Ankara from fading?

Wash Ankara inside out in cold water with mild detergent, avoid bleach, and dry it in the shade rather than strong direct sun.

How do I store aso-oke and gele?

Store them flat or loosely rolled, clean and fully dry, in a breathable cotton bag away from damp. Avoid tight folds that crease permanently.